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A Visit to Hatfield House - August 2020

This post was written at the start of September, prior to the changes in guidance starting on September 14th. Always check the guidance before visiting somewhere.. Please act responsibly when deciding what activities you partake in during the pandemic. Wash your hands, wear a mask, and keep two meters apart.


Last month, my partner and I went on a day trip to Hatfield House. With things starting to open up and cases looking in a stable position and the hottest day of the year on our side; we donned our suncream and facemasks, grabbed our water bottles, and emerged like moles from the ground into the wide worlds once again.


This was to be my first 'day out' since a short break in London on the 20th and 21st of February. Casting my mind back now, I recall how we spoke of this distant and slightly concerning virus we knew so little about which loomed on the horizon but remained far enough away that going to two theatre shows, eating from a delicious buffet in Chinatown, and cramming into Hamley's toystore with my little sister just felt normal. Well, normal enough - it was a very treasured and special time to me. It's different now, of course, as those things aren't quite possible yet. If we are going to make new memories such as these, it is our social responsibility to do so as safely as possible.


So, we went to Hatfield House. I booked the tickets in advance online, and we decided that we would visit just the gardens as the weather was so nice, and 'inside' still held that daunting elevated risk. Arriving, the car parks were well manned and ready to help us park, but it was just so quiet. We arrived around midday and wandered to the admissions booth, where we received a map of the gardens and surrounding woodlands. Being the eternal child I am, we also picked up the Nature Detective challenge, too. There's no age limit on wanting to identify as many trees and insects as possible.



There were so many genuinely kind and helpful people around the gardens, all smiling and offering guidance to reach certain areas. We entered the first part of the garden, before the Old Palace. Giving me Gentleman Jack realness, I felt instantly transported to a bygone age. "Let's pretend we own everything," I told Alex, as we weaved through the plants and admired the shimmering gold statue. On another occasion, I would certainly return to admire the interior of the Old Palace. I'd love to see the furniture, tapestries, art, and architecture. I'm somewhat of a nerd for what my partner calls 'exploring old dead wealthy people's houses', especially palaces or places so rich in history as this. Did you know, the Old Palace was built in 1485 and that Henry VIII used it as a nursery for his three children? You can imagine the three little ones chasing each other around their garden, before being summoned in for a lesson or something to eat.



Just to the left of the old Palace is a long pergola canopy, the leaves dappling shadow onto the path and providing some well-needed shade. At the end of this passage is an enormous stone frieze carving. This carving is by J. G Bubb and was brought to Hatfield House in 1855 after a fire at the Royal Exchange. Hatfield House is probably most well-known for its connections with Elizabeth I, and holds the stunning Rainbow Portrait in the Marble Hall. It was here that she grew up and was held somewhat prisoner and interrogated for allegedly agreeing to illegally marry Thomas Seymour. Rumour has it, the 'Queen Elizabeth Oak' in the woodland area is where Elizabeth also discovered she was to be queen after her sister Mary's death. You can feel much of her presence here, and the respect given to her in preserving and honouring that.



There's so much to see in the Hatfield House gardens, that we devoted the morning to exploring the formal area - with it's scented gardens, fountains, and the impressive Sundial Gardens. The sundial was based on a design by Franz Ritter published in 1607. "Pose like a pirate!" I asked, only for Alex to place his hand upon it lethargically and squint in the thirty-degree heat. He wasn't giving me the explorer vibes I wanted to photograph, but the piece was stunning. Truly, the beauty of these gardens was expansive. You could have sat at any number of stone benches and admired the bee-covered shrubs, herbs and flowers, or watched water tumble down from fountains, or rested in the shade with a book for hours. It was so peaceful and tranquil to explore, and the floral scent of history could be found in every corner.



When the sun was at it's highest and hottest, we retreated to the cool shade of ancient trees for a picnic. I lay out the blanket, and we feasted on cheese scones, tomatoes, little sandwiches, crisps, and my favourite - oat and raisin cookies. One of the main charms of Hatfield House is its enormous woodland space. There are pre-routed three walks which are marked out on the map given at the gate, but also with colour-coded signposts throughout the forest. We had started upon the shortest walk, which was due to take us about 40 minutes if I recall correctly. But, as Alex will attest, I am a monster when it comes to a long walk, especially through somewhere so beautiful as this. So, halfway around this short walk, I decided this was not enough for us on the hottest day of the year. We looked at the map and cut across onto the medium route, which would follow along the river and back up again. Double the length, at least. Alex must hate me sometimes.



But, I'm sure he must have agreed with me that this spot was worth the walk. The river was that little bit cooler, and under the shade of a tree we sat for an hour or so admiring the lilypads and dragonflies, the weeping willow and royally graceful white swans. It was stunning and well worth that little bit extra of a walk to get to this spot. How bizarre, too, that to look to your left you could make out the glistening rooftops of racing cars along the A414. It was a moments well-needed peace in a serene haven of nature, of ducklings and insects buzzing past, of fresh and vibrantly green grass, and finding moments of peace in an ever-complicated and concerning world.



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